Savoring Stories: Yabrak/ stuffed grape leaves/ taquitos de hojas de parra
Do you have a tried-and-true dish that comes with an interesting origin story? If so, we want to hear from you!
My Syrian great-grandmother, Leah Seur, arrived in Mexico in the early 1900s with her husband, Isaac Mizrahi, and three of their children. My grandmother Esther, one of 12 siblings, was born in Mexico. On their long journey by ship to the Americas, Leah brought with her a set of pots — specifically for making rice. Maybe she feared that without her familiar utensils, she wouldn’t be able to make rice in Mexico as well as she had in Damascus.
Ever since I can remember, I’ve made this dish for Rosh Hashanah and Pesach. Yes, even though our family name is Schnadower, my husband’s and mother’s families are from Syria and rice has always been a staple on our holiday table.
My Syrian grandmother, Esther, and my mother didn’t have the patience to teach me how to make more complex dishes, like kibbeh, but this one was simple enough to learn on my own. Rolling the “taquitos” usually takes about two hours, followed by another hour of cooking. It’s the perfect time to share holiday memories, go over final preparations for the meal, and fill the house with the unmistakable smells of the season.
Now, I’m teaching my daughter Liora how to make them. Sometimes my husband and son join in, but she’s the most enthusiastic. Every holiday, I see how much she’s improving — it’s a beautiful way to watch her fine motor skills develop. Last time, she rolled the grape leaves so carefully there were almost no holes!
There are many variations — some served cold, some made with just rice or with lamb — but our favorite (and the only one I know how to make) is the version with ground meat and rice in lemony broth.
Ingredients
For the grape leaves:
1 (32-ounce) jar brined grape leaves
1 cup uncooked long-grain white rice
2.2 pounds ground meat
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped (or 1½ tsp dried mint)
1 tablespoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon salt (or to taste)
¼ teaspoon black pepper (or to taste)
For the broth:
Juice of 3 large lemons
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped (or 1½ tsp dried mint)
2 garlic cloves, chopped
½ tsp salt (or to taste)
¼ tsp black pepper (or to taste)
Instructions
1. Prepare the leaves:
Drain the grape leaves and carefully remove them from the jar to avoid tearing.
2. Make the filling:
In a large mixing bowl, combine the rice, ground meat, mint, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Mix gently until well combined.
3. Prepare the pot:
In a wide 6- to 7-quart pot or deep skillet, add about 1 tablespoon of olive oil and swirl or brush it around to coat the bottom.
Work with one leaf at a time. Lay it flat on your work surface, shiny side down, vein side up.
Trim any remaining stem at the base.
Place about 1 tablespoon of filling near the base of the leaf. Shape it into a compact line, about 2–3 inches long depending on leaf size.
Fold the bottom of the leaf over the filling, then fold in the sides, and roll tightly from bottom to top into a cigar shape.
5. Layer in the pot:
Place each rolled grape leaf seam-side down in the pot. Pack them snugly to prevent unrolling during cooking. Add a second layer on top in the opposite direction, if needed.
6. Prepare the broth:
In a bowl, mix the lemon juice with the chopped mint, garlic, salt and pepper. Set aside.
7. Cook the grape leaves:
Add enough water to the pot to just cover the grape leaves.
Cover with a tight-fitting lid and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours, until the leaves are tender and the filling is fully cooked.
Check occasionally and add more water if needed to keep them covered.
8. Add the broth:
Once the meat and rice are cooked through, pour the lemon-mint broth over the grape leaves. Simmer for a few more minutes.
9. Serve:
Serve warm, with some of the broth spooned over the top. PJC
Do you have a tried-and-true dish that comes with an interesting origin story? If so, we want to hear from you! Submit recipes along with their backstories to newsdesk@pittsburghjewishchronicle.org, and write “Recipe” in the subject line. Please include a photo of the dish. You may see your submission as part of our column “Savoring Stories”!
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