A toast to freedom — and freedom from mediocre wine

Every spring, as Jewish families around the world gather for Pesach, a familiar rhythm takes hold: Matzah crunches, prayers and songs echo, maror makes a lot of nasal passages open — or as my father would say, Jewish Dristan — and four cups of wine are poured in honor of the Exodus.

For generations, those cups were often filled with syrupy, sacramental wines like Manischewitz or Kedem. But today, a quiet revolution is transforming the Pesach table. A new wave of kosher wine is challenging expectations — and it tastes like freedom to me.

Wine has always held symbolic weight in Jewish tradition. During the Pesach seder, four cups are poured to represent the four expressions of redemption from the Book of Exodus. Today, that wine can also symbolize something else: freedom from the era of overly sweet, uninspired kosher offerings.

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Across vineyards in Israel, California, France and beyond, kosher winemakers are crafting bottles that don’t just meet religious requirements — they impress serious wine drinkers. These wines are bold, dry, complex and made with care. They’re built for the seder table, but worthy of any fine dining experience; and let’s not kid ourselves, the Pesach meal is a fine dining experience with multiple courses.

In Napa Valley, producers like Covenant Wines are creating Bordeaux-style reds with depth and character (Covenant, Red C and Landsman). In Israel, wineries such as Domaine du Castel, Recanati and Flam are combining ancient terroir (soil) with modern techniques to produce award-winning vintages. From the Galilee to Sonoma, kosher winemaking is no longer about making do — it’s about making exceptional.

This shift mirrors broader changes in how many people observe Jewish traditions. As younger generations seek more meaningful and personal expressions of faith, they’re looking for quality and connection. This shift mirrors broader trends in food and culture. We are seeking authenticity, quality and innovation in our rituals. Just as farm-to-table has influenced how we cook for Shabbat, the higher quality of wine movement is influencing what we pour at our seder.

Some kosher wines are now organic or biodynamic, crafted with minimal intervention and sustainable practices. Others experiment with lesser-known varietals, such as kosher Tempranillo from Spain or a sparkling rosé from Oregon. The variety is growing, and so is the excitement around it.

This evolution also brings choice to the seder experience. No longer must all four cups come from the same bottle. Many families now serve a range of wines throughout the night — maybe a rosé to open, a rich red with dinner, a dessert wine to finish. Some even pair different wines with the symbolic foods on the seder plate, turning the evening into a true tasting experience.

Locally, shops like Murray Avenue Kosher and Pinskers are embracing this movement, offering a wider selection of high-quality kosher wines. It’s now easier than ever to find bottles that complement both the traditions of the holiday and the tastes of modern wine lovers.

Still, there’s room at the table for nostalgia. For some, Pesach simply wouldn’t feel right without a familiar glass of Concord grape wine. That’s part of the beauty of the holiday — it welcomes continuity while allowing room for change. Tradition can be honored while still exploring new flavors and experiences.

This Pesach, the four cups still represent redemption, hope, and celebration. But they can also reflect personal freedom — freedom to choose wines that elevate the moment, honor the terroir and reflect the evolving identity of the Jewish community.

As families gather to retell the story of the Exodus, there’s something fitting about toasting with a wine that tells its own story — one of true craftsmanship.

So this year, when you fill your cup, consider what you’re really toasting. Redemption from slavery? Yes. The endurance of tradition? Absolutely. But maybe, just maybe, you’re also celebrating a new kind of freedom: the freedom to enjoy truly excellent wine with your matzah and maror. L’chaim to that. PJC

Uriel Marcovitz is a former restaurateur in Pittsburgh. He studies wine with the Court of Master.